Alaska by Land and Sea
There’s a particular kind of stillness in Alaska. I felt it most in Glacier Bay — deep blue water, a glacier gleaming in the distance, and two bald eagles perched on a drifting mound of ice. That mix of beauty and quiet is hard to capture, and it’s why people call Alaska a once-in-a-lifetime trip. For us, it was even more: a celebration of my mother-in-law’s 80th birthday — her 50th state — shared across three generations, from age 80 down to 5.
This post is more tactical than most of my writing, a throwback to when I recapped our family trip to Italy. Friends keep asking where we went, how the cruise worked with kids, and all the logistics. I’ll dig into it all, with tips along the way.
It’s long. This is my digital diary, after all!
But, it’s skimmable — so read however you’d like. 😉
First stop for the Sanford crew in Fairbanks, Alaska.
Our Trip Overview
Cruise Line & Ship: Holland America Line, ms Noordam
Total Days: 10 days (3 land + 7 cruise)
Starting/Ending Points: Fairbanks, Alaska → Vancouver, Canada
Who it’s great for: Families with multiple generations, first-time Alaska travelers, and anyone who wants to experience both Denali National Park and Glacier Bay.
Why we chose this: It was the best balance of structure + variety for ages 5 through 80. And, honestly, because our cruise planner, Cheryl, told us this was the one to do!
10-Day Signature Denali, Southbound
While a different ship, this is the same itinerary we did:
3 days of land (Fairbanks + Denali + Anchorage/Whittier) followed by a 7-night Inside Passage cruise.
Day-by-Day Itinerary Highlights
Day 1 — Fairbanks Arrival (July 24)
Evening arrival in Fairbanks, transfer to Westmark Fairbanks Hotel.
Personal Note: We arrived late (9pm ish Alaska time, which was midnight Texas time) and we had to be up and packed early, by 6:30am though our bus didn’t leave until 9am. The hotel was mehhh. The rooms were fine, nothing fancy. We skipped the overpriced $24 breakfast buffet and opted to walk to The Crepery which was fast, cheap, and delish! They even had GF crepes, so I had an amazing Brie, Fig, and Honey crepe! We also grabbed trail mix and other healthy and kid-friendly snacks from Co-Op Market that was a block from the hotel.
Pro tip: Pack everyone’s things for the land portion of the trip in a single bag so you don’t have to dig through all the luggage each night.
This was a MAJOR miss on my part. I was so proud for packing in a carry-on each, which has major perks when traveling to Europe. But, on this trip, it was less than ideal!
Day 2 — Denali National Park (July 25)
Morning: Deluxe motorcoach from Fairbanks to Denali (narrated drive with mountain and river views).
Afternoon: Denali Natural History Tour
Personal Note: I didn’t know what to expect while traveling by bus through Denali, but our guide was amazing and told us about the history of the area and we learned fun facts about the animals we saw along the way, like the difference between a raven’s nest (deep, narrow) and an osprey’s nest (wide, shallow). We also saw about 5 Moose VERY CLOSE to our bus, one was a momma moose with a nursing baby!
We did get out to explore a number of times, including to meet a teen from the native Tanana people who shared more about her culture and experience growing up in Alaska. A sudden downpour of rain meant she finished up her stories from our bus, but overall the weather was delightful so no big deal!
If it had just been Jim and I, we would have loved to actually hike and explore Denali National Park, but the pace of this visit was right for our group.Overnight: Holland America Denali Lodge. This hotel was new and lovely! Much nicer than the previous one. There was a little square with a few restaurants, live music, and a gift shop. It was clearly all owned by Holland America, so not local feeling, but the ambiance was cozy, the area lush, and the food at Karsten’s was great for grab-and-go breakfast and also for dinner.
Denali National Park
Day 3 — Rail to Anchorage (July 26)
Morning: Transfer to rail depot.
McKinley Explorer Dome Railcar: Denali → Anchorage
A Scenic all-day ride with huge glass dome windows and dining onboard.Personal Note: The domed train was an absolute Bright Spot of the trip! Each car had a guide who would tell you about the area, point out wildlife, and prepare us for breathtaking views of Denali herself. They say about 30% of people get to see the peak of Denali and only about 10% get an unobstructed view, free of clouds. We had an unreal view of Denali at every viewable spot along the way—I’d say we were 1%ers!
It was an eight-hour ride, but it never felt long. A lot of it was spent gazing out the dome windows, talking with family, reading, and soaking it all in. One of my favorite parts was walking with the kids all the way to the back of the train. Standing in the caboose with Jim and his big camera, snapping photos of the tracks stretching endlessly behind us, felt a little woozy (motion sickness is real!) but absolutely magical. The kids loved standing between the cars too, feeling the rush of the train and the thrill of being “outside” while still safely onboard.
This wasn’t just transportation from point A to point B—it was a true experience. We’ve taken the kids on trains in Europe, but those rides were simply to get somewhere. This was about the journey itself: the sweeping mountain views, lush landscapes, and the feeling of adventure under the glass dome. Honestly, even though Jim sometimes felt like we were being herded along during this land portion, I’d say the dome train alone makes it worth it. If you’re piecing together your own Alaska trip, figure out a way to do this Denali-to-Anchorage glass dome train. It was pure magic.
We pulled into Anchorage around 6 p.m. with a 7:30 trolley tour on the schedule—but we bailed. We were hungry, tired, and ready to just explore on our own.
Overnight: The Hotel Captain Cook in Anchorage. The hotel was fine, not great. BUT it was walking distance to the precious little Elderberry Park on the water where the kids played that evening before dinner (it stays light out until 9:30pm-ish) and in the morning before we left.
Mount Denali in all her glory! Photo cred: Jim Sanford
Jim’s photo from the caboose!
Day 4 — Embarkation in Whittier (July 27)
Morning: Motorcoach from Anchorage to Whittier.
Boarded ms Noordam and settled into our Neptune Suite (Cabin 6084).
Personal Note: We spent the afternoon exploring the ship, playing pickle ball up top, getting unpacked and settled in, and taking in views from our big ‘ole balcony!
We are a family of four, so we opted for the Neptune Suite to give us extra space. WOW was I happy with our choice. I’ll share some pictures of our room in use: our plentiful closet space, bathroom set-up, pull-out couch and sitting area, etc. I couldn’t find these type of pictures when I searched prior to our trip in terms of a family set-up for the suite, so hoping this is useful (and not weird!) The regular rooms are tight. Trust me, book the suite if you can swing it!
There are other perks of the Neptune Suite I’ll get into later.
Day 5 — Hubbard Glacier (July 28)
Our first full day at sea + scenic cruising of Hubbard Glacier, an immense tidewater glacier known for active calving (ice chunks breaking off).
Personal Note: I wish we would have done the excursion to get up close and personal with the glacier via a smaller boat. I saw some unreal videos of the ice calving from people we met on the ship, though we didn’t see it for ourselves. I don’t recall seeing it as an option, or perhaps there were age limitations.
Today was also my birthday! So, we used it as an opportunity for a ladies spa day. My mother-in-law, sister-in-law, and I each got a facial and a massage. The spa rooms had a massive window overlooking the water and mountain views. Dreamy.
Jim and I also reserved a Thermal Suite pass to use all week. This included a huge heated hydropool with jets and lounger seating inside, a wet steam room, dry steam room, dry sauna, and then thermal loungers overlooking the water. So this became a daily escape for each of us, and sometimes even together, if the kids were swimming or watching a movie in our room.
Jim planned a birthday dinner for me at Canaletto. It was also a “dressy” night on the ship, though where we ate most days, it really didn’t matter. He also managed to bring party hats, candles, gifts, the whole bit! The meal and the company was top-notch.
More on dining logistics and options in a later section, too.
Day 6 — Glacier Bay National Park (July 29)
National Park Rangers boarded the ship to narrate. Multiple glaciers, quiet coves, wildlife spotting.
Personal Note: One of my most peaceful memories from the trip was sitting at the Crow’s Nest (very front area of the ship on the 10th floor), watching ice drift past, and spotting two bald eagles on a floating piece of ice.
I loved this area of the ship. Instead of staring at phones and scrolling, couples, individuals, or small groups, were playing cards, board games, or staring out the window looking for wildlife and taking it all in.
The ship had a lovely library and endless board games and puzzles. Borrow, play, return when you’re finished. There were also many classes and lectures, and luckily one was on calligraphy so my sister-in-law and I joined that one!
As a birthday gift to myself (and not knowing about the calligraphy class!), I brought along a Modern Hand Lettering workbook, a pack of colorful brush pens, and some fine tipped black ones. Instead of reading in my downtime, I chose to learn and practice fancy lettering!
We did have beautiful views of Glacier Bay all day and saw lots of wildlife. This is the day I captured the picture of the pair of Eagles floating together on an ice chunk. And I saw an Orca jumping out of the water right near the ship, its iconic white spots as it turned. No picture, just the sweet memory in my head. Everyone else in my family saw pods of Otters this day. Sadly, I missed them.
The Crow’s Nest, floor 10 of ms. Noordam.
Day 7 — Skagway (July 30)
Port 7 am–8 pm. Historic Gold Rush town.
Excursion: Gold Fever Experience: Gold Panning & Alaska Sled Dogs
Personal Note: Skagway was a charming little rail town that feels built for cruise passengers, but still full of character. We chose a family-friendly excursion that mixed a bit of history, gold panning, and of course, puppies. Our guide, “Earl E. Bird,” stayed in character the entire time, making us laugh with his oversized collection of watches and stories from the Gold Rush era. The kids were mesmerized as they learned how prospectors lived, tried their hand at panning for gold, and proudly weighed and saved their tiny treasures. We ended up turning their gold into little keepsake charms, which felt much more meaningful than another souvenir.
The highlight for my son, though, was meeting the sled dogs. Iditarod dogs aren’t the fluffy huskies most of us picture — they’re lean, small, and built for endurance. Hearing from a musher who has spent decades training and racing them gave us such a personal glimpse into Alaskan life. And then came the puppies. Watching the kids cuddle and giggle with them was one of those heart-melting moments that will stick with me forever.
Day 8 — Juneau (July 31)
Port 8 am–5 pm. Alaska’s capital, only accessible by sea/air.
Excursion: Mendenhall Glacier & Whale Quest
Personal Note: Our day in Juneau was pure magic — the kind of experience you hope for on an Alaskan cruise. We started with a whale-watching tour by boat, guided by our captain and Kat, a naturalist who kept us laughing and learning the whole time. We saw countless humpbacks — including Kelp, Barnacles, and Riddler, all identified by the unique “fingerprints” on their tail flukes — and, to our surprise (and Kat’s!), even multiple pods of orcas!
Watching these school-bus-sized creatures surface and dive in the wild was breathtaking, and after a few photos I found myself putting the camera away just to soak it in. Kat keeps a photo site updated with her stunning whale shots, which made me feel even more free to just be present in the moment.From there, we headed to Mendenhall Glacier. We walked the shorter scenic loop as well as a longer trail that ended at Nugget Falls — an immense waterfall crashing into the lake with the glacier as its backdrop. The views and the sound of rushing water were unforgettable.
Owen had one of those tender cousin moments with little Ruby, giving her piggyback rides and holding her hand, which melted my heart. Not everyone made the walk — Vivian was worn out, so Jim stayed back with her, and Melanie and Deanna had to skip the day altogether — which made me even more grateful for the beauty we got to witness. Juneau ended up being one of my very favorite days of the whole trip.
Pod of orcas!
Day 9 — Ketchikan (August 1)
Port 11 am–7 pm.
Excursions: Ketchikan Salmon Fishing and Saxman Native Village, Dance, Totems & Lumberjack Show
Personal Note: By day nine, we split into two groups. Jim, Joe, and Owen went salmon fishing while the rest of us explored Saxman Village and the lumberjack show.
Fishing sounded thrilling — Jim hooked massive salmon but lost them at the net. Luckily, another passenger shared her catch, and Jim shipped it home. We’ve already enjoyed it in Dallas — some of the freshest, most delicious salmon ever.
Meanwhile, Deanna, Tiffany, Ruby, Vivian, and I visited Saxman Native Village. Inside the clan house, Tlingit dancers — mostly kids and teens — shared traditional songs and stories in full regalia. From there, we toured the totem park and carving center, where towering poles told centuries of history. In the workshop of a world-renowned carver (practicing more than six decades), we watched apprentices continue his work and learned how each pole tells a story. It gave us a deep appreciation for the craft and meaning.
We ended the day at the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. Cheesy? Yes. But Ruby and Vivian were on the edge of their seats cheering through log rolls, axe throws, and speed climbs — worth it for their joy.
If I could redo Ketchikan, I’d carve out time to wander into town, especially Creek Street with its boardwalk over the water. With rain that morning and our excursion schedule, we stayed close to the ship. Still, between fishing tales, native culture, and lumberjack laughs, it was a full and memorable day.
Day 10 — Inside Passage Cruising (August 2)
Scenic sailing through fjords and coastal islands.
Personal Note: Our last full day was slower and sweeter — a chance to soak in the scenery and the rhythm of cruise life. The Inside Passage offered endless views of green islands and blue-gray water, and I lingered on our balcony just taking it in.
By now, the kids knew the ship inside and out. They loved meeting friends, swimming, and ordering virgin strawberry daiquiris by the pool.
The highlight was Jim’s one official request of the trip: a family shuffleboard match on Deck 10. Tiffany joked that since he hadn’t asked for anything else all week, we had to show up — and we did. It was windy and chilly, the kids were impatient, but we laughed through it before everyone bolted for the pool.
The rest of the day was a perfect mix: board games in the Crow’s Nest (Vivian lobbied hard for Risk), a round of Cards Against Humanity Kids Edition, reading, hand lettering, and writing. No big excursions, just a peaceful exhale to end our adventure.
Day 11 — Vancouver Disembarkation (August 3)
Arrival 7 am. Disembark and travel home.
Personal Note: Our final morning came early with some added stress. American Airlines moved our flight up to just after noon — technically outside the cruise’s “approved” window. That meant no transfers, no expedited customs, and warnings we might not make it. For a while, we worried, but the Neptune Lounge concierge reassured us and helped us plan.
We packed the night before and had one last breakfast at Pinnacle Grill. My go-to was Greek yogurt with granola and an almond milk cappuccino; Vivian ended on waffles with strawberries. A sweet final moment before the bustle of travel.
Disembarkation ended up painless — off the ship, through customs, and into a cab in fifteen minutes. All that stress, and we were at the airport three hours early. Not glamorous, but smooth, efficient, and we were home by afternoon.
Tips for Booking & Ship Perks
Suite Choice
Our Neptune Suite was worth every penny for a family of four. The space, sitting area, and massive balcony made it so much more comfortable, and the suite perks were incredible.
We loved the plentiful storage, double sink and separate tub and shower in the bathroom, a pullout sofa for the kids, and thoughtful touches like a high-quality pair of binoculars in the room. Unlimited laundry and pressing was hands-down one of my favorite luxuries. I can’t stress enough how nice it was to send out a bag of clothes each day and have everything come back folded. We didn’t need nearly as much clothing as we packed. The suite also came with Wi-Fi for the adults, which we upgraded so Owen’s watch and Vivian’s iPad could connect. That meant they could message us if they were at kids’ club or hanging in the room — a game-changer for family independence.
Cabin Location
We were midship and right by the glass elevators. For me, that location was perfect — I’m sensitive to motion, and I felt very little being centered in the ship. Walking the long patterned hallways to visit family’s rooms made me woozy, so I was extra grateful for our spot. The glass elevators also made the ride itself a little fun moment with views. Plus, we only had neighbors on one side, since the elevator bank was on the other, which meant it felt more private.
For Kids
Our cabin gave the kids plenty of space to relax, watch movies, and stretch out between excursions. They loved the pool (and ordering virgin strawberry daiquiris), kids’ club activities, and meeting other kids to roam the ship with. Owen even played pickleball midday. The key cards and Wi-Fi made it easy for them to check in with us when they wanted independence, and we always felt safe letting them have that freedom.
For Adults
Quiet mornings on the balcony, cappuccinos and breakfast at Pinnacle Grill (a Neptune Suite perk), and concierge support in the Neptune Lounge were my highlights. The concierge was worth their weight in gold — no waiting in guest services lines, just instant help with anything from excursion questions to disembarkation logistics. Jim and I also loved sneaking off to the gym and thermal suite early in the mornings while the kids slept.
Sea Days
Sea days became a rhythm of board games in the Crow’s Nest, lounging in the library with a book or my hand lettering, and the kids zipping between the pool and friends. Jim and I tried a few fitness classes, relaxed in the hydro pool, and had time to just sit and enjoy the views rolling by.
Skip List
We didn’t bother with most of the specialty dining (aside from Canaletto one night and the Seafood Boil). With kids and a group, we were happy at the included restaurants and buffets. The Lido Market was reliable, easy, and had enough variety to keep everyone happy. I’m gluten-free, and while my choices were a little more limited, I still had plenty to eat. We also skipped some of the evening shows and trivia events — not because they didn’t look fun, but because we preferred playing games together, hanging out on the balcony, or catching up with family. Honestly, we didn’t regret it at all.
Packing & Weather Lessons
What I Got Right: Layers, Hokas, Birkenstock clogs as slippers, versatile sandals, and a light rain jacket.
What I Wish I’d Brought: Honestly, nothing — thanks to the daily laundry perk!
Wish I’d Left at Home: Extra “dressy” outfits. I wore a dress once or twice, but leggings or excursion clothes were fine most nights.
Must-Haves: Good camera or upgraded phone for nature shots, extra pair of binoculars, small daypack or fanny pack for excursions, and goggles for the kids (if they are a must-have in your fam, like in mine!) Optional: hat and gloves.
Weather Prep: Expect sun, wind, rain, and chill in one day. We lucked out with very little rain and warmer than I expected.
Final Reflections
What I’ll remember most is Alaska’s sheer scale — glaciers, waterfalls, and whales that no photo could capture AND the joy of celebrating Deanna’s 80th across three generations. I never thought we’d do a cruise, but it was the right way to see Alaska with kids and grandparents: naturalists on board, family-friendly downtime, and excursions that sparked awe. If it were just Jim and me, I’d choose a smaller, more adventurous trip, but for this moment in our lives, it was perfect.
We missed our Papa Bear, Dennis Sanford, but felt him with us in spirit. Truly a once-in-a-lifetime journey. If you made it to the end, congratulations.
Longest.
Blog post.
Ever.